Research
AmpleLab Research
19 September 2026

Where the "Clascoterone Beats Finasteride" Claim Comes From

Hair Science Series

Where the "Clascoterone Beats Finasteride" Claim Comes From

Published by AmpleLab Research

Most of the recent conversation around clascoterone (Breezula) has focused on its 2025 Phase 3 results and the gap between the two trials' headline numbers, 539% and 168% relative improvement. Long before that, though, clascoterone had already built a reputation for matching oral finasteride, a claim that traces back to a single 2018 press release and a comparison that turns out to be very different from the head-to-head evidence the claim implies. This article goes back to that earlier evidence base: the 2018 dose-ranging trial the finasteride comparison actually comes from, a real head-to-head study against minoxidil whose actual result is more modest than either "beat minoxidil" or "lost to minoxidil" framings suggest, and an earlier, largely overlooked trial in women that told a less flattering story than the one currently circulating about men.

None of this contradicts the 2025 Phase 3 data. It's a different, earlier layer of evidence that deserves its own scrutiny rather than being summarised as "clascoterone performs like finasteride" and left there.

Where the Finasteride Comparison Actually Comes From

Clascoterone was originally developed under the name CB-03-01 by Cassiopea SpA, an Italian pharmaceutical company listed on the Swiss stock exchange. On 16 July 2018, Cassiopea announced a six-month interim analysis from a Phase 2 dose-ranging trial, and it's this release that the "matches finasteride" claim traces back to.

Cassiopea SpA — Phase 2 Interim Results Press Release, 16 July 2018 View ↗

404 men were enrolled across 6 sites in Germany and randomised to one of five groups: 2.5% clascoterone twice daily, 5% twice daily, 7.5% twice daily, 7.5% once daily, or vehicle twice daily, for a planned 12 months. At the six-month interim point (375 subjects analysed), the 7.5% twice-daily group showed the largest mean increase in target area hair count (TAHC) from baseline, 20.8 hairs in a 1 cm² area, statistically significant against both baseline and vehicle. The vehicle group's own change from baseline was essentially flat, -0.11 hairs. The press release then compared this figure to a completely separate historical dataset: the Propecia (finasteride) FDA New Drug Application, in which oral finasteride reached a TAHC of 107 hairs at twelve months in a larger, 5.1 cm² target area; dividing that by 5.1 to normalise per cm² gives roughly 20.1, which Cassiopea presented alongside clascoterone's 20.8.

That 20.8-versus-20.1 comparison is the basis for the widely repeated "clascoterone matches finasteride" claim, and it is worth being precise about what kind of comparison it is not: it is not a randomised head-to-head trial. The two numbers come from different studies, run by different companies, in different countries, on different populations, using target areas of different sizes (normalised only by simple division, not by any formal statistical method), and at different time points, six months for clascoterone against twelve months for finasteride in the original NDA data. Indirect, cross-trial comparisons like this can be a reasonable first-pass sanity check, but they carry none of the statistical protection a randomised trial gives you, and treating "the two numbers were similar" as equivalent to "the two drugs perform the same" overstates what the comparison can support.

This is also, separately, a different comparison from the in vitro potency figures that sometimes circulate alongside it, IC50 values of 1.55×10⁻⁶M for clascoterone versus 2.89×10⁻⁶M for finasteride in a cell-based androgen receptor assay. Those numbers describe receptor-binding potency in a lab assay, not clinical hair-count outcomes, and finasteride's actual mechanism doesn't involve binding the androgen receptor at all, it inhibits the enzyme that produces DHT. Comparing an androgen-receptor-antagonist's receptor affinity to a 5-alpha-reductase inhibitor's enzyme-inhibition potency is comparing two different kinds of measurement for two different mechanisms; a lower IC50 for one drug on one specific assay doesn't tell you which drug will grow more hair on a scalp.

A Dose Question the 2025 Data Doesn't Answer

The 2018 dose-ranging data raises a question that's easy to miss once attention moves to the 2025 Phase 3 results: in that earlier trial, 7.5% clascoterone twice daily (20.8 hairs) produced a substantially larger mean increase than both 5% twice daily (12.2 hairs) and 2.5% twice daily (13.0 hairs), roughly 70% higher than the 5% dose at the six-month interim point. Yet the SCALP 1 and SCALP 2 Phase 3 trials that produced the 539%/168% headline results tested only the 5% concentration, not 7.5%.

Cosmo has not, as far as AmpleLab can find, publicly explained why 5% was carried forward into Phase 3 rather than 7.5%. It means the Phase 3 programme did not test the dose that produced the largest mean hair-count increase in the earlier six-month interim analysis.

The Real Head-to-Head, and What It Actually Found

Unlike the indirect finasteride comparison above, a genuine randomised comparison against an active competitor does exist: a double-blind, three-arm proof-of-concept study in 95 men, presented at the American Hair Research Society's 2018 annual meeting in Orlando by Maria Hordinsky and colleagues, comparing clascoterone 5% (n=31), vehicle (n=33), and minoxidil 5% (n=31) over six months.

Hordinsky M et al. — American Hair Research Society Annual Meeting, Orlando, May 2018 View ↗

78 of the 95 enrolled men completed the six-month treatment period. Both active arms showed a larger increase in target area hair count (TAHC) from baseline than vehicle, but the reported comparison against vehicle did not reach statistical significance (p = 0.0971). By hair growth assessment, 39% of the clascoterone group and 36% of the minoxidil group saw a favourable result, versus 16% on vehicle, also not statistically significant (p = 0.2213). No specific mean hair-count values for either active arm are given in the abstract, and no direct statistical comparison between clascoterone and minoxidil is reported, only each arm's comparison against vehicle. The abstract also notes minoxidil's effect "peaked at Month 4," a detail with no clascoterone equivalent stated.

This is a more modest, and more honest, result than either "clascoterone beat minoxidil" or "minoxidil beat clascoterone" would suggest: in this small proof-of-concept trial, neither active treatment separated from vehicle at a conventional level of statistical significance, and the trial wasn't designed or reported in a way that lets clascoterone and minoxidil be compared directly against each other. It's a real, randomised, active-comparator trial, which puts it on firmer ground than the indirect finasteride comparison above, but its own numbers don't support a clean verdict either way, and that's worth knowing given how often "beat minoxidil" language circulates around this drug.

The Trial in Women That the Current Conversation Skips

In September 2021, Cassiopea reported results from a separate Phase 2 proof-of-concept trial in women, 293 participants aged 18 to 55, comparing 5% and 7.5% clascoterone against 2% minoxidil and vehicle over six months.

Cassiopea SpA — Female AGA Phase 2 Topline Results, 10 September 2021 View ↗

Across the full study population, results were mixed, and the company had anticipated as much given a known strong placebo response in prior topical trials in women. Only the subgroup of women under 30 receiving 5% clascoterone twice daily showed a statistically significant change from baseline in hair count at six months (p = 0.0391), though the company noted this subgroup was not statistically powered to detect significance, meaning the finding should be treated cautiously rather than as confirmed. Safety findings were consistent with prior studies, with mostly mild local skin reactions.

This is a meaningfully less flattering result than the male programme's headline numbers, and it hasn't featured in any of the recent coverage of clascoterone's Phase 3 success, understandably, since the current Phase 3 trials enrolled men only. Independent write-ups of this same trial's per-protocol population (reported elsewhere as roughly 61 evaluable women, close to the approximately 70 randomised per protocol that Cassiopea itself cited) put responder rates at about 75% for 2% minoxidil, versus 66% for 7.5% clascoterone and 57% for 5% clascoterone, meaning minoxidil numerically outperformed both clascoterone doses on this measure. Cassiopea's own framing at the time was that female pattern hair loss is a more biologically complex condition to treat than male AGA, a reasonable caveat, though it doesn't change what the trial itself showed for women as a whole: an active, decades-old comparator numerically outperformed both clascoterone doses on some of the reported measures.

From Cassiopea to Cosmo

Cassiopea, the Italian company that ran all of the trials described above, was acquired by Cosmo Pharmaceuticals through a public exchange offer completed in December 2021, with Cassiopea's shares delisted from the Swiss exchange in early 2022. Every SCALP 1 and SCALP 2 trial record still lists Cassiopea SpA as the formal trial sponsor, a reminder that Cosmo's current clascoterone programme is built directly on top of Cassiopea's decade of earlier, smaller trials rather than starting fresh, both the encouraging dose-ranging signal and the more mixed female data included.

Common Questions

Has clascoterone been directly tested against finasteride?

Not in a randomised head-to-head trial that AmpleLab could find. The "matches finasteride" claim comes from an indirect comparison in a 2018 press release, clascoterone's own six-month result against a figure from finasteride's original, unrelated FDA approval trial measured at twelve months. It's a rough cross-trial comparison, not a controlled study of the two drugs against each other.

Has clascoterone been directly tested against minoxidil?

Yes, in a small 2018 proof-of-concept trial in 95 men. Neither clascoterone nor minoxidil separated from vehicle at a statistically significant level in that trial, and no direct statistical comparison between the two active drugs was reported, so it doesn't support a clean claim in either direction.

Why did Phase 3 use 5% clascoterone instead of 7.5%?

Unclear. The company's own 2018 dose-ranging data showed 7.5% twice daily outperforming 5% twice daily, but Cosmo has not publicly explained why the lower concentration was carried into the Phase 3 SCALP trials.

Does clascoterone work for women?

The evidence is much thinner and less positive than the male data. A 2021 Phase 2 trial in 293 women found statistically significant improvement only in a small, underpowered subgroup of women under 30; by responder rate, the active comparator, 2% minoxidil, numerically outperformed both clascoterone doses tested. The current Phase 3 SCALP 1 and SCALP 2 trials enrolled men only.

Does any of this change what the 2025 Phase 3 results showed?

No. SCALP 1 and SCALP 2 are separate, larger, vehicle-controlled trials in men and stand on their own evidence. This article is about the older, smaller trials that shaped clascoterone's reputation before those results existed, and about claims still circulating that rest on that earlier, thinner evidence.

Selected Research

Cassiopea SpA — Phase 2 Interim Results Press Release, 16 July 2018 View ↗
Cassiopea SpA — Female AGA Phase 2 Topline Results, 10 September 2021 View ↗
Hordinsky M et al. — Breezula™ (CB-03-01): A Novel Topical Anti-Androgen, American Hair Research Society Annual Meeting Abstract Book, Orlando, May 2018 View ↗
Cosmo Pharmaceuticals and Cassiopea SpA — Public Exchange Offer Settlement Announcement, December 2021 View ↗

This article is provided for educational purposes and does not constitute medical advice. Clascoterone 5% solution (Breezula) is an investigational drug not approved by any regulator and not available for purchase through any legitimate channel. Winlevi (clascoterone 1% cream) is approved for acne only. AmpleLab products are cosmetic formulations, unrelated to clascoterone, and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any condition.

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Written by AmpleLab Research